Seven expeditions issued permits to climb Mt Everest

KATHMANDU, APRIL 6: The Government of Nepal has begun issuing mountaineering permits for expeditions aiming to summit Mt. Everest, the world’s highest peak, during this year’s spring climbing season.

According to the Department of Tourism, permits have so far been granted to seven expedition groups, comprising 17 women and 60 men, for Mt. Everest (Sagarmatha). In total, 198 climbers from various countries, including Nepal, have received permission to attempt the climb, as per the department's data.

Department Director Liladhar Awasthi stated that permits have been issued for Mt. Everest and 29 other smaller peaks to date. Among them, 66 climbers from six groups are set to climb Annapurna I, while eight climbers from one group have obtained permission for Annapurna V. Additionally, 15 climbers from a mountaineering group and another 15 from a separate team in Lhotse have received clearance to scale Makalu.

Preparations are currently underway on Everest, where the route to Camp II is being opened and fixed. However, progress has been hindered by strong winds in the Sagarmatha region over the past two days. Winds reached speeds of 35 kilometers per hour as of last evening, with continuous icefall hampering efforts.

The Department reports that icefall doctors—specialist climbers responsible for preparing safe routes through dangerous glacier areas—are on standby for better weather. Work is also in progress to install ladders in the Khumbu Icefall and hooks in the Hanging Air section. So far, four ladders, 12 hooks and nails, and 1,100 meters of route have been completed.

The Sagarmatha Pollution Control Committee (SPCC) has deployed a 10-member icefall doctor team to open the climbing route from Base Camp to Camp II. These experts will coordinate with another team to ensure a safe passage for ascending climbers.

Once the route to Camp II is ready, rope-fixing from there to the summit will be undertaken by the Mountaineering Expedition Operators' Association. An eight-member team led by Ashok Lama has already been deployed for this task. The association has entrusted the 8K Expedition Company with the responsibility of managing rope-fixing and route preparation for Everest this spring.

Spring is considered the most favorable season for climbing Mt. Everest, attracting a significant number of international climbers each year.